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Il Boccone: a Sicilian almadraba just a stone's throw from A...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is a land of fire and wind, affable folk, trembling earth, a fitful volcano, and tuna. Plenty of bluefin tuna. Since time immemorial, tuna-fishing nets (tonna...
The bluefin tuna of the caliphs sampled at El Envero
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. In the homeland of salmorejo and expertly stewed oxtail, there is still a place for exquisite bluefin tuna as the cornerstone of a menu. As demonstrated here at El Envero, the restaurant we visited to find o...
Aquarium: bluefin tuna in the land of lobster
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. There can be no doubt that when it comes to culinary standard-bearers, in Menorca, the lobster is queen. It’s shown off proudly (and then crowned in flames) at the island’s restaurants, accompanied b...
Ta-kumi, or the unexpected success of student Arbeloa
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. During my bountiful years in the trade, and my travels outside and within Japan, I have met countless aspiring masters of the subtle and simple technique of creating the very best sushi. From established che...
Tuna tongue, marrow and eyes: a new era at the Ricardo Fuent...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. According to the dictionary, to which I always turn with curiosity and often amazement, a laboratory is defined as a place equipped with the required means to conduct research, experimentation and work of a ...
Fuentes bluefin tuna tapas: talent to scale
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Internationally speaking, they are the most recognisable trait of Spanish cuisine. As universal as sushi or pizza. Supposedly they had a twofold origin: a matter of hygiene, and what might be called whetting...