This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.
Enso Sushi: the virtuous circle of the bluefin tuna
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Learning Japanese, getting by in a language with so many intonations and phonetic pitfalls, is a titanic task for a Westerner whose mother tongue is of Romance or Germanic origin. A feat made all the more im...
Hermanos Vinagre, or why bluefin tuna is a sublime tapa
I first set foot in Spain as a gastronomic correspondent back in 1989. And what my bosses got me to explore to begin with was what I then defined as holy ground: the bars of Madrid. Notebook in hand, my bewildered face betraying my stupefac...
Nippon 2: a quixotic story and a cult sushiman
“My name is Yuho Matsushita. I was born in the south of Japan, in Kagoshima province, 57 years ago. It is 30 years since I moved to Spain. I came to the Barcelona Olympic Games in 1992, because I love athletics. I got my ticket and saw Fe...
The flavourful and well-travelled history of Longino & Carde...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Their motto says it all, like jewellers crafting gems and precious stones found in far-flung corners of the globe, whether in open-cast mines, sea beds, volcanoes or shadowy grottos: “Rare and precious...
The self-taught Romeo who has conquered Alicante
No restaurant sector consultant or business strategist would wager a dime on such audacity. An intrepid young Italian émigré, with no prior experience and no Japanese roots, investing in setting up sushi restaurants in the heart of Alican...
Kabutokaji: celebrity, empowered tuna
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. When Real Madrid legend Raúl González Blanco signed for the German ‘miners’ Schalke 04, bringing to an end his era at the club in 2010, I felt a huge sense of disappointment. I, like many of my...