Blog

Enso Sushi: the virtuous circle of the bluefin tuna

A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Learning Japanese, getting by in a language with so many intonations and phonetic pitfalls, is a titanic task for a Westerner whose mother tongue is of Romance or Germanic origin. A feat made all the more im...

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Hermanos Vinagre, or why bluefin tuna is a sublime tapa

I first set foot in Spain as a gastronomic correspondent back in 1989. And what my bosses got me to explore to begin with was what I then defined as holy ground: the bars of Madrid. Notebook in hand, my bewildered face betraying my stupefac...

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Nippon 2: a quixotic story and a cult sushiman

“My name is Yuho Matsushita. I was born in the south of Japan, in Kagoshima province, 57 years ago. It is 30 years since I moved to Spain. I came to the Barcelona Olympic Games in 1992, because I love athletics. I got my ticket and saw Fe...

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The flavourful and well-travelled history of Longino & Carde...

A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Their motto says it all, like jewellers crafting gems and precious stones found in far-flung corners of the globe, whether in open-cast mines, sea beds, volcanoes or shadowy grottos: “Rare and precious...

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The self-taught Romeo who has conquered Alicante

No restaurant sector consultant or business strategist would wager a dime on such audacity. An intrepid young Italian émigré, with no prior experience and no Japanese roots, investing in setting up sushi restaurants in the heart of Alican...

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Kabutokaji: celebrity, empowered tuna

A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. When Real Madrid legend Raúl González Blanco signed for the German ‘miners’ Schalke 04, bringing to an end his era at the club in 2010, I felt a huge sense of disappointment. I, like many of my...

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