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Madonna, bluefin tuna and age-old dynasty: the Hispano in Mu...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. The culinary critics of The New York Times – as well as many of my compatriots– know very well where to go if they wish to taste the traditions of Old Europe. They delight in age-old family restaurants. ...
Pez Japanese Grill: the most festive tuna, the most visual s...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. There are many Japanese restaurants overseas. Thousands of them. In Paris, London, Oakland, Cape Town, Buenos Aires, Logroño (bravo, Kiro Sushi – we will be dedicating a future post to this zen miracl...
Joaquín Felipe: a rocker for bluefin tuna
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. He has never given up his roguish air of a nineteenth-century bullfighter, parading before the public true to cast-iron principles of loyalty, bonhomie and professionalism regarding his craft and his people....
Cabaña Buenavista: an inland sea for bluefin tuna
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. As if Robinson Crusoe had deliberately confined himself to his island. Like a shipwrecked sailor aiming to sink in an archipelago of talent and exploration far from everything, but close to his patrons. From...
Yugo, or a bunker fit for a king
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. To summarise an unusual professional volte-face, a path of perfection and light, in just two sentences: Julián Mármol was a car salesman in 2007. Julián Mármol is one of Spain’s leading chefs in th...
Magoga: Arguiñano, calm, and tuna with sherry
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. What the divine Karlos Arguiñano has brought together, let no man or mundane customer put asunder. María Gómez and Adrián de Marcos met at the Aiala School founded in Zarautz by the pre-eminently famous ...